Sunday 1 January 2017

Day One - 25th March 2016
Ilam to Hartington - 11.5 miles
Weather - Sunny with a slight cold wind

We were up by 6 o'clock and on our way by 8 after an assortment of breakfast choices ranging from porridge to bacon butties.  The roads were clear and we arrived in Ilam by nine.  We parked the car in a quiet village lane where it will be staying for the duration of the walk.  Toilets were visited first at Ilam Hall and then we headed for our first church of the day which was Holy Cross in Ilam. The system is: find the Peak Pilgrimage box file, stamp your guide book and stick the bible quotation in the guide book in its allotted space. We had four churches to visit this first day so everyone could have a go in our little group.

Now the walking could begin and it started with a field full of sheep with their brand new lambs which made a perfect introduction to this early Spring long distance walk. We walked past the Issac Walton Hotel and the path emerged by the main Dovedale Car Park which, although it was only 9:30am, was filling up with Easter day trippers.  Decisions were made about whether to cross the River Dove by the stepping stones - Mr L was the only one to take the option and we met him when our paths converged at the entrance to Dovedale.  The stepping stones were teeming with children and dogs but we soon left the hoards behind as we walked in the Spring sunshine with the river sparkling and gushing through the dale and the limestone glowing next to the lush, green grass.

We soon arrived at Milldale and enjoyed a cup of tea at Polly's Cottage.  As always, the staff were lovely and lent us a tray to carry our tea to the riverbank.  Lots of people arrived as we supped our tea, ate our hot cross buns and were visited by hungry, bold ducks.  Off again, up a steep lane though Milldale to the Primitive Methodist Chapel and our second church of the day. It was built in 1835 and it is tiny with no electric or water supply.  A room for prayer and quiet contemplation amongst simple pews, bare walls and the smell of polish.  Onwards up the path to Alstonefield and our third church.  St Peter's Church is lovely and has a DIY cafe for passing walkers.  The church was established in 892 and the present building dates from the twelfth century. It is a marvelous place which exudes a warm, ancient welcome.  

The next stage was along a farm track and we had to skirt round a small field with a 'very active pony' as the guide book told us.  Today he was very inactive and sat in the grass and watched us walk by. We were now approaching a 'declivity' and we walked to the edge of the dale to view it.  What a view!  What a declivity!  Wolfscote Dale was laid out before us in all it's glory and our path was leading us down into the heart of it via Gypsy Bank.  The bank was steep and we took our time descending to the dale bottom and we met the River Dove again. The sound of a bird of prey caught our attention and looking up at the limestone cliffs we spotted a pair of nesting peregrine falcons.  Luckily, Mr L had his binoculars so we could all get a good view of these beautiful birds.  Soon a small crowd had formed to watch the comings and goings of the falcons.  

Onwards we walked along Wolfscote Dale with limestone pinnacles and cliffs soaring above us.  It is a wonderful place to walk and enjoy its stunning beauty.  We were soon following another dale - Beresford Dale and before we knew it we were in Hartington where the path emerged next to the public conveniences which were very convenient for us.  A walk to the church, St Giles, where we found there was a service in progress so we went in search of a cafe and a pot of tea.  On our return the service was over so we stamped and stickered our guide book and wandered up to the youth hostel and our accommodation for the night.  Hartington Youth Hostel was fabulous - a large room, bed's made, real fires, pannelled walls, good food!  
Holy Cross, Ilam

Primitive Chapel, Milldale

Descending Gypsy Bank to Wolfscote Dale

Wolfscote Dale and the River Dove


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